Australia's fashion exports

Nearly Nude’s Lucy Hosken agrees that Australian fashion is becoming more popular. “I think they like labels from Australia because they’re quite forward with the designs, they’re young and groovy, and people also like the fact that it comes from Australia, they think it’s a good place.”

Australian Fashion Week is also one of the first shows of the season, which means Aussie designers can be early in setting trends, particularly in spring/summer. This was where Easton Pearson got their kick-start globally, with two major buyers from the UK and China buying the collection after their first show in 1998. “It was all about timing. It came at a time when buyers were looking for something unique. Our designs are all hand-embroidered and decorated, and they’re very individual,” says Pearson. “If people are looking for something individual, they will look to Australian designers because we’re seen to do that really well.”

Easton says it’s inevitable for Australian designers to innovate, rather than follow fashion trends. “Australian designers know that if they’re going to succeed internationally and catch the attention of overseas buyers they can’t just copy something that’s already out there. They’ve got to bring something new and innovative to the market. Australia is renowned for being very creative.”

Delivering Service

Broadly speaking, modern Australian design is a service industry. “If you look at Australia as a creative nation, it involves a lot of work in creating new products, fundamental research in new fabrics and design and consumer trends, and possibly a lot of the prototyping in garments can be done in Australia as well,” says Sutton. “So we don’t necessarily have to focus on the big production run because maybe we’re making that closer to the retail market or in very large production plants anywhere in the world. But where we’re seeing great strength is in the innovative, high value-add components of the garment—the brand, the design, and the fundamental research on how to make that garment.”

Design as a service, however, is hard to measure, and so exact figures on fashion’s contribution to our export base aren’t available. What we do know, though, is that Australian fashion is making its mark. It is traditionally strong in the US and Europe, with a major achievement being the launch of eight Australian brands into Ireland’s Brown Thomas department stores last year.

We’ve also had strong showings in Japan and the Middle East over the last year, but Sutton admits exporters often work most successfully closer to home, so our fashion industry does well in neighbouring markets such as New Zealand, Indonesia, and Singapore. An unforeseen success story came out of Rosemount Fashion Week in Sydney last year, when six Indonesian buyers signed 53 deals with Australian brands—the largest in terms of value and volume, according to Austrade.

The type of product will obviously determine the right markets. For example, red-carpet fashion will do well in wealthy, affluent markets, whereas swimwear will undoubtedly do well in big resort areas.

Showing Off-shore

In order to stay competitive in the global fashion field, brand management and positioning is crucial. Gualtieri believes it’s vital for designers to have a presence at major international fashion events with an eye to being picked up by overseas retailers and boutiques. “There is a greater recognition of Australian fashion due to a greater participation by Australians in international trade showings such as New York and London Fashion Week,” she says.

Although fashion shows launched Easton Pearson internationally, the pair choose not to officially ‘show’ at fashion events these days, but have a more subtle presence. “We don’t exhibit at the trade shows because our brand is unique and we try to keep it exclusive, but we do go to Paris during Fashion Week and show by appointment,” explains Pearson.

Hosken’s Nearly Nude, however, has been lucky enough to grow organically through word-of-mouth. She first made contact with a Canadian distributor through a friend just a year into the business, and six months later her product was in 50 stores across Canada and the US. Nevertheless, as she tackles new markets with a growing product range, Hosken says she’ll need to spend more time at international fashion events to grow the brand.

Such events will raise a brand’s profile but just as important are the business elements which follow, such as delivering to, and supporting, the buyers around the world. “If there’s one take-home message that’s really important for Australian exporters, and for admiring young designers, it is listen to your consumer and listen to your retailer,” advises Sutton. “The retailers have some very specific requirements—it will turn up on time, it will be priced correctly, and it will make your consumer feel special.

“Then, the process of brand management is a partnership between the brand owner and the retailer. If you can’t support your retailers in far-flung and wide markets, then you’re probably not assisting your retailer to sell the product, and they will ask the question, ‘considering the number of choices I have around the world, why should I buy from you?’”

Hosken says maintaining relationships with her agents and distributors overseas is crucial. “That’s where I spend about 80 percent of my time. I speak to my agents and distributors every second day and we have really good relationships with them, which I think is key.”